Coffee – Bean Growing

There is more than one kind of coffee and each one has its own unique characteristics. For a tree grown in over 70 countries, from the Philippines to Brazil, it’s curious how narrow a range of conditions is required to produce quality ”beans” and how relatively small the total output is. The word ”beans” is deliberately in single-quote marks, since the thing that gets roasted and ground to make the drink isn’t really a bean at all, it’s a seed. In particular, it’s the seed of a fruit that grows on trees that can easily reach twenty feet or more. Some wild varieties grow to over 45 feet or 15m. Most of those seeds come in a pair, though there is a variety that produces only one (the peaberry). The berry resembles a cranberry, with a sweet pulp covered by a membrane called a silverskin. In a band around the equator from approximately 25 degrees north or south, comes the overwhelming majority of the world’s coffee output. Temperatures of between 60F (15C) and 70F (21C) are best as is rainfall of six inches per month or more. Loamy, good-draining soil is needed and also helpful is high humidity – plenty of mist and cloud at the high elevations, over 3000 ft (915m) for the good stuff. At these elevations the oxygen content is lower, so the trees take longer to mature. The Robusta, or coffea canephora, goes into making the majority of coffee because it can be grown at lower altitudes and is more disease resistant. But it’s the high-altitude coffea arabica that forms the base of a gourmet cup. 90% of the Philippines coffee production is the Robusta variety. Diffuse light and moderate winds are helpful, both of which are sometimes produced by deliberately growing in the shelter and shade. By contrast, wine grapes like hot sun and lots of it. Once planted, the tree takes about five years to mature to first crop and even then a single tree will only make enough for about two pounds (1 kilogram) of coffee. Those two pounds equal about 2,000 beans, (correct or not, it’s the standard term), usually hand-picked by manual laborers. Manual they may be, but ignorant they are not. Coffee bean harvesting is a skill developed over time, where the picker learns to select good beans and discard the bad. Bean by individual bean. That’s only one reason coffee is high priced. The trees have broad, dark green leaves and produce a flower that resembles Jasmine. Some – in Brazil and Mexico, for example, – blossom over a six to eight week period. In countries that lie along the equator such as Kenya and Colombia, though, a tree can have mature berries growing alongside still ripening ones. That’s part of what makes picking such a specialty. Blossom to harvest may cover a period of up to nine months depending on the weather and other factors and the cycle will be carried out for the life of the tree – about 20-25 years. With the best cultivation technology, a good harvest will be between 6,600 lbs (3,000 kg) and 8,800 lbs (4,000 kg) per hectare. (One hectare is about 2.47 acres.) From these inaccessible regions, where conditions are harsh, the berries are brought down and processed to make up the world’s second largest commodity (by annual dollar volume). The Philippines is one of the only countries where four kinds of coffee are grown. These are Robusta, Arabica, Excelsa and Liberica (Philippines Barako).

I consume coffee more than I do rice

I started drinking coffee when I was in high school but it was more of a breakfast ritual that continued until college. Upon joining the corporate world however, my daily consumption rose to noticeable levels that my boss had an item for it in the grocery list JD's coffee! Being largely uninitiated then, I took coffee with unrestrained enthusiasm that two and a half mugs of espresso after lunch, once caused palpitations and had me going home early.

A few years later, the sudden boom in the Manila’s coffee shop industry introduced me to more varieties. I developed a taste for various brands and hatred for others. I also liked the various concoctions like machiatto and Frappuccino but mostl, it was  a choice between the classic Cappuccino, Americano and the regular brews with the last one being preferred 99% of the time.

I remember that as I was growing up, a lot of people cautioned against coffee due to supposed health concerns. In this period however, the popular scientific thought seems to point to the other direction. Coffee is now said to bring a lot of health benefits to people and that gave me more reason to continue its consumption. Coffee continues to keep me company in my solitary work station and occasional business meetings. And now, I feel less guilty about it.

Philippine coffee should be going through good times, as this article is being written. There are hundreds of new café's in Philippines CoffeeMetro Manila and more scattered over the rest of the Philippines that failing to gain from it will be a great shame for our coffee farmers. An industry expert once lamented that while the Philippines is blessed as the only country to grow all four main varieties (Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa and Liberica), farmers grew all four side by side with each other resulting to mutations, growth of crossbreeds and eventually, inconsistent quality.

Philippine coffee should be on its way past that stage. After all, local demand is growing fast. Here's to the farmers and coffee drinkers all over Cheers!